Sunday, April 29, 2007
Emerald Isle Visitors
Sunday, April 29. The beach house seems quiet this afternoon, now that both the Clares and the Lillys have gone back to their respective boats. We picked up Tom and Gerry Clare (Sea Knight), with their delightful dog Lucy, on Thursday in Morehead City. They treated us to a wonderful anniversary dinner at Kathryn’s Bistro that night. Then Barry and Sheryl Lilly (Seaquel) arrived at Beaufort on Friday. What a treat to have Loopers visit us at Celtic Breeze. We walked on the beach (when the wind wasn’t blowing too hard), did a little shopping, a little bicycle riding, a lot of eating good food, sipping good beverages, and chatting about our boating adventures. Last night the Lillys treated us to dinner at the Ice House restaurant in Swansboro, and we introduced them to Yana’s apple fritters this morning at breakfast. Such a fun and interesting group of people these Loopers are! We surely hope to meet up with them again on the water during the next few months. Bob and I plan to stay here until Wednesday afternoon, then we’ll head north to the quaint waterfront town of Oriental, NC.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Southport, NC to Swansboro (M 229), then Morehead City NC (M 205) and Emerald Isle
Monday thru Thursday, April 23-26. Bob and I are celebrating our 38th anniversary today in our much-loved beach house on Emerald Isle, NC. And celebrate we will! First, some catch up. We left Southport on Monday morning, heading out on the Cape Fear River portion of the ICW. We cruised at a fast clip past areas we’ve read about for years: Snow’s Cut, Masonboro Inlet, Wrightsville Beach, and Figure Eight Island. After that we were in familiar territory: Topsail Beach, Sneads Ferry, Camp LeJeune, Swansboro, and finally Morehead City.
The vista has definitely changed. Instead of tall oaks and pines, the trees seem shorter and windblown, having suffered through a succession of major hurricanes from 1996 – 2002. The amount of development along the shoreline still amazes me. We went through a succession of marshy sloughs and little sandy islands populated with gulls. The mosaic of sand, spartina, ocean, and sky is a sight that always thrills my soul. Each time we passed an inlet, we negotiated strong currents and watched the depth sounder closely for shoaling. There were several low bridges, but we could get through all but two of them by lowering our VHF antenna. While waiting for one of the 12-foot swing bridges to open on the hour, Bob masterfully dealt with strong currents, a narrow channel, and a bunch ‘o other boats milling about, waiting to pass through. I was impressed!
By 3:30 p.m. on Monday, we were safely tied up at Casper’s Marina in Swansboro, NC. This is home territory for us. We had kept a runabout at Casper’s in their dry stack for several years. We then found ourselves in a dilemma: the car that we were supposed to rent never came in. So here we were within a few miles of our beach house at 5:30 p.m. with no way to get there. Good hearted W.T. Casper kindly drove us “home” across the bridge to Emerald Isle, and we eventually managed to get an Enterprise car late Tuesday evening. Yesterday Bob hijacked our beach neighbor Bob Williams, and together they moved the boat on up the ICW to the Yacht Basin in Morehead City. This is a stretch of waterway that I’ve traveled a thousand times, so I stayed at the beach house and did various upkeep things. Last night we met fun Loopers, Bob and Susan Hauge on La Gaza Verde, for dinner at the Front Street Grill in Beaufort. Today we are waiting for other friends to arrive. Can’t wait to show them this stretch of Bogue Banks/Emerald Isle/Swansboro/Morehead City/Beaufort paradise. We plan to stay here for a whole week!
P.S. For those who know and love Celtic Breeze (our beach house), there are now two new mega-houses in front of us. One of them is neon orange. The photo doesn't do it justice. What were they thinking?
The vista has definitely changed. Instead of tall oaks and pines, the trees seem shorter and windblown, having suffered through a succession of major hurricanes from 1996 – 2002. The amount of development along the shoreline still amazes me. We went through a succession of marshy sloughs and little sandy islands populated with gulls. The mosaic of sand, spartina, ocean, and sky is a sight that always thrills my soul. Each time we passed an inlet, we negotiated strong currents and watched the depth sounder closely for shoaling. There were several low bridges, but we could get through all but two of them by lowering our VHF antenna. While waiting for one of the 12-foot swing bridges to open on the hour, Bob masterfully dealt with strong currents, a narrow channel, and a bunch ‘o other boats milling about, waiting to pass through. I was impressed!
By 3:30 p.m. on Monday, we were safely tied up at Casper’s Marina in Swansboro, NC. This is home territory for us. We had kept a runabout at Casper’s in their dry stack for several years. We then found ourselves in a dilemma: the car that we were supposed to rent never came in. So here we were within a few miles of our beach house at 5:30 p.m. with no way to get there. Good hearted W.T. Casper kindly drove us “home” across the bridge to Emerald Isle, and we eventually managed to get an Enterprise car late Tuesday evening. Yesterday Bob hijacked our beach neighbor Bob Williams, and together they moved the boat on up the ICW to the Yacht Basin in Morehead City. This is a stretch of waterway that I’ve traveled a thousand times, so I stayed at the beach house and did various upkeep things. Last night we met fun Loopers, Bob and Susan Hauge on La Gaza Verde, for dinner at the Front Street Grill in Beaufort. Today we are waiting for other friends to arrive. Can’t wait to show them this stretch of Bogue Banks/Emerald Isle/Swansboro/Morehead City/Beaufort paradise. We plan to stay here for a whole week!
P.S. For those who know and love Celtic Breeze (our beach house), there are now two new mega-houses in front of us. One of them is neon orange. The photo doesn't do it justice. What were they thinking?
Monday, April 23, 2007
L-O-N-G Day from Georgetown (M 403) to Southport, NC (M309)
Monday, April 23. Just some notes from yesterday's trek before we cast off again. We really put the petal to the metal (so to speak) yesterday, and we made it all the way to Southport, NC. It was a L-O-N-G day, let me tell you. If we weren't so eager to get up to the beach house, we would have stopped earlier. Plus cruising down the river on a Sunday afternoon meant that there were a zillion speed boats out.
- The Waccamaw River is pretty, with lots of cypress trees and even wildflowers on each side of the channel. There was a good bit of debris in one long stretch of the channel, including a few nasty logs. It reminded us of the Tenn-Tom Waterway. We passed several Looper boats, which we hope to meet again.
- We did stop at Osprey Marine (M 373) for fuel, and it was $2.28 per gallon with Boat U.S. Discount. We saw diesel advertised at $2.48 later.- At M 365, we are in "the ditch" -- not much to see, except plenty of houses and potential development. Our eyes were on the depth indicators and the markers.
- As we approached Myrtle Beach (M 360), we started seeing much more development, which eventually became condo blight. We weren't so thrilled with Myrtle Beach and happily passed on by. At some point there was a statue of a girl waving by the waterway. I waved back. She just stared at all the boats waking other boats or being waked.
- We saw LOTS of weekend traffic. (Including hot, fast boats with hot, fast blonde babes in the back seat.) "Wake? What wake? I'm cool!" We had to laugh at two couples in a long, sleek yellow Cigarette boat (or was it a Fountain -- not sure). They raced their boat up and down, back and forth on the Grand Strand. Eventually they found friends in a similar boat, and they joined the fun, which wasn't so fun for other boaters in the channel.
- We got through the notorious Rock Pile (lots of boats hit hard coquina rocks on the bottom in this shallow stretch, but if you are careful, there is no problem), Shallote Inlet, and Lockwood Folly Inlet ok, but we were watching the markers and depths really carefully. Boats and more boaters were out on the ICW as we passed Sunset Beach, Ocean Isle, and Holden Beach. Cruising down the river on a Sunday afternoon (it was a beautiful spring day), Bob had to toot his horn twice in one day for the first time ever. One runabout was heading straight toward us in the narrow channel, while the driver was rubbernecking at one of the inlets. At another time, two little Ski-Doos were just sitting, talking in the middle of the narrow channel at low tide. They were clueless that it mattered.
By 5:30 p.m. we ended up at a marina in Southport, NC. We would have stopped earlier, but there wasn't a good place. We're glad we made it here. From the Southport Marina, we could walk to another pretty village and enjoy dinner at Fishy Fishy Cafe. This marina is undergoing renovation, but it is fine. Southport is another one of those lovely, quaint, historic towns. Bald Head island would have been alternative stop, but the Emerald Isle magnet is drawing us north!
Pictures later. Time to move again.
- The Waccamaw River is pretty, with lots of cypress trees and even wildflowers on each side of the channel. There was a good bit of debris in one long stretch of the channel, including a few nasty logs. It reminded us of the Tenn-Tom Waterway. We passed several Looper boats, which we hope to meet again.
- We did stop at Osprey Marine (M 373) for fuel, and it was $2.28 per gallon with Boat U.S. Discount. We saw diesel advertised at $2.48 later.- At M 365, we are in "the ditch" -- not much to see, except plenty of houses and potential development. Our eyes were on the depth indicators and the markers.
- As we approached Myrtle Beach (M 360), we started seeing much more development, which eventually became condo blight. We weren't so thrilled with Myrtle Beach and happily passed on by. At some point there was a statue of a girl waving by the waterway. I waved back. She just stared at all the boats waking other boats or being waked.
- We saw LOTS of weekend traffic. (Including hot, fast boats with hot, fast blonde babes in the back seat.) "Wake? What wake? I'm cool!" We had to laugh at two couples in a long, sleek yellow Cigarette boat (or was it a Fountain -- not sure). They raced their boat up and down, back and forth on the Grand Strand. Eventually they found friends in a similar boat, and they joined the fun, which wasn't so fun for other boaters in the channel.
- We got through the notorious Rock Pile (lots of boats hit hard coquina rocks on the bottom in this shallow stretch, but if you are careful, there is no problem), Shallote Inlet, and Lockwood Folly Inlet ok, but we were watching the markers and depths really carefully. Boats and more boaters were out on the ICW as we passed Sunset Beach, Ocean Isle, and Holden Beach. Cruising down the river on a Sunday afternoon (it was a beautiful spring day), Bob had to toot his horn twice in one day for the first time ever. One runabout was heading straight toward us in the narrow channel, while the driver was rubbernecking at one of the inlets. At another time, two little Ski-Doos were just sitting, talking in the middle of the narrow channel at low tide. They were clueless that it mattered.
By 5:30 p.m. we ended up at a marina in Southport, NC. We would have stopped earlier, but there wasn't a good place. We're glad we made it here. From the Southport Marina, we could walk to another pretty village and enjoy dinner at Fishy Fishy Cafe. This marina is undergoing renovation, but it is fine. Southport is another one of those lovely, quaint, historic towns. Bald Head island would have been alternative stop, but the Emerald Isle magnet is drawing us north!
Pictures later. Time to move again.
Labels: From serene to crowded to lovely again
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Charleston (Mile 469.5) to Georgetown, SC (Mile 403)
Saturday, April 21. On our last fling in Charleston, we hooked up with five couples and took a historical tour of the city, enjoyed lunch at Hymen's Seafood, then walked through the city market to Harris Teeter's Grocery for provisions (more honey fruited chicken salad -- yum!) Bright and early this morning we cast off our lines and again headed north on the ICW. After we passed the Isle of Palms, we were back among the salt marshes, enjoying the vista of sweet grass (spartina), live oaks, and driftwood. The water is the color of iced coffee.
We were in excellent company as we passed or were passed by various boats, many belonging to other Loopers. It was nice to hear polite, considerate requests by faster boats to pass slower boats rather than cringing as hot rock boaters speed by with no warning, pitching the passed boats in mountains of wake. I love hearing the names called on the radio: Sea Knight, La Gaza Verde (The Green Goose), Irish Ayes, Restless Spirit, Sue Sea Que.
By three p.m. we were safely tied up at Boat Shed Marina in Georgetown, SC, just across from Pawley's Island. We rode our bikes down the oak-shaded streets lined with lovely Victorian houses. This historic town was founded in 1730, and its population built wealth by shipping rice, indigo, and lumber throughout the world. Today the revitalized downtown area is bustling with cute shops, restaurants, and pocket parks that serve as entry ways to a wonderful boardwalk. After a really good dinner at the Rice Paddy restaurant with old friends Duffy and Russ from Work of Art, we called it a night. It's good to be on the move again.
We were in excellent company as we passed or were passed by various boats, many belonging to other Loopers. It was nice to hear polite, considerate requests by faster boats to pass slower boats rather than cringing as hot rock boaters speed by with no warning, pitching the passed boats in mountains of wake. I love hearing the names called on the radio: Sea Knight, La Gaza Verde (The Green Goose), Irish Ayes, Restless Spirit, Sue Sea Que.
By three p.m. we were safely tied up at Boat Shed Marina in Georgetown, SC, just across from Pawley's Island. We rode our bikes down the oak-shaded streets lined with lovely Victorian houses. This historic town was founded in 1730, and its population built wealth by shipping rice, indigo, and lumber throughout the world. Today the revitalized downtown area is bustling with cute shops, restaurants, and pocket parks that serve as entry ways to a wonderful boardwalk. After a really good dinner at the Rice Paddy restaurant with old friends Duffy and Russ from Work of Art, we called it a night. It's good to be on the move again.
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Ron and Eva Sparked the Dream
It was Ron and Eva Stob who sparked the dream of pursuing the Great Loop adventure by publishing their delightful book, Honey, Let's Get a Boat. Little did they realize at the time that this one book would ignite the imaginations of so many people. As several people have commented, Honey Let's Get a Boat was the most expensive book they've ever purchased!
The America's Great Loop Association (AGLCA), which the Stobs founded, now has a membership in the thousands. Although they are stepping down as directors of the organization, the Stobs surely have stars in their crowns. They will always be much loved and appreciated by Loopers.
Some Looper Friends
These are a few of the Loopy friends we have met along the way. We will be seeing more of many of them in the next few months. A few, however, have either finished the loop or have not yet started. We will stay in touch though.
The best part of a Rendezvous is catching up with people you have cruised with along the way. The next one will be in July in Penetanguishene, Canada.
No two of them have the same kind of boat. Their boats range in size from a 32-foot Grand Banks Trawler to a 60-foot Hattaras.
The Fellowship of Loopers
Monday, April 16 in Charleston. Everyone agrees that seeing the Great Loop burgee on another boat as you pass on a river or pull into a marina is a thrill. You are in the presence of another kindred spirit! The first time Bob and I went to a Great Loop Rendezvous, we were still “Looper Wannabes.” We didn’t know anybody there, and we listened with great interest and not a little awe at the stories “Veteran Loopers” told of colorful characters, scenic vistas, near disasters, the kindness of strangers, fascinating small towns, serene morning mists, adrenaline rushes, and lessons learned along the way. But by far the most common thread in the tales we heard was that of lifelong friends made during the journey. Now that we are officially “Looper Doers,” we’ve found just how easy it is to bond with people who are sharing this off-the-wall adventure.
During the last couple of days it has been a real kick to reunite with friends who have anchored with us in secluded coves or crossed long, open stretches of water with us, and shared fabulous meals with us. As the strong, battering winds (clocked at 65 mph) finally began to die down yesterday, we got a call on our cell phone inviting us to a “We Survived the Storm Party.” What a fun group and what incredible memories we’ll have when we eventually sit in our rocking chairs describing “the old days on America’s waterways.” Right now our rocking is on a catamaran in the fellowship of Great Loopers – and we like that just fine. (This was written last Monday. The winds are again calm.)
During the last couple of days it has been a real kick to reunite with friends who have anchored with us in secluded coves or crossed long, open stretches of water with us, and shared fabulous meals with us. As the strong, battering winds (clocked at 65 mph) finally began to die down yesterday, we got a call on our cell phone inviting us to a “We Survived the Storm Party.” What a fun group and what incredible memories we’ll have when we eventually sit in our rocking chairs describing “the old days on America’s waterways.” Right now our rocking is on a catamaran in the fellowship of Great Loopers – and we like that just fine. (This was written last Monday. The winds are again calm.)
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Big Winds in Charleston
Sunday, April 15. The wind is howling, just as it did throughout the night, with gusts to 50-plus mph. More wind and thunderstorms are on the way. But we are relatively safe and secure on our boat, which is tightly tied up to the Charleston City Marina MegaDock. The water looks wicked -- confused seas, whitecaps, and spray -- so we’re glad we aren’t anchored out. Bob and I drove back to Charleston on Thursday, the 12th, stopping for a too short lunch with daughter Susan in Atlanta. Shortly after we arrived, a cruise ship pulled up to the other side of the dock. It was the American Spirit from American Cruise lines, getting ready to take on passengers for a week’s cruise down the Intercoastal Waterway. They were going to the places we’ve been only recently: Beaufort, Savannah, Hilton Head, and Jacksonville. The ship holds about 50 people, and they do tours of Maine and points north in the summer; South Carolina and Florida in the summer. Might be a fun way to see some of the northern waterways that we will miss on our route. Anyway, they dwarfed us! We looked like a peanut beside an elephant.
We’ve spent the past couple of days trying to find storage for all STUFF we brought from home: clothes (mostly mine) and new equipment (mostly Bob’s). We have also re-stocked groceries, cleaned a ton of pollen off the boat, and picked up two new collapsible bicycles from the local West Marine store. The bikes are cute. I feel like I’m riding on a toy, but they are really lightweight and easy to get onto and off the boat. Bob and I took a short ride into Charleston yesterday and again we loved seeing the charming old Charleston houses with their fancy ironwork, dark green shutters, and lovely gardens.
The best part about being back, of course, is that we are getting to see old Looper friends again. All of us are here for the Spring Great Loop Rendezvous. Registration and a few events begin tomorrow, to be followed by a full schedule of speakers who will share their expertise about cruising from North Carolina through Canada. Our brains will be overloaded in a few days, but it will be time well spent, with plenty of revelry interspersed among the more serious topics.
We’ve spent the past couple of days trying to find storage for all STUFF we brought from home: clothes (mostly mine) and new equipment (mostly Bob’s). We have also re-stocked groceries, cleaned a ton of pollen off the boat, and picked up two new collapsible bicycles from the local West Marine store. The bikes are cute. I feel like I’m riding on a toy, but they are really lightweight and easy to get onto and off the boat. Bob and I took a short ride into Charleston yesterday and again we loved seeing the charming old Charleston houses with their fancy ironwork, dark green shutters, and lovely gardens.
The best part about being back, of course, is that we are getting to see old Looper friends again. All of us are here for the Spring Great Loop Rendezvous. Registration and a few events begin tomorrow, to be followed by a full schedule of speakers who will share their expertise about cruising from North Carolina through Canada. Our brains will be overloaded in a few days, but it will be time well spent, with plenty of revelry interspersed among the more serious topics.
