Saturday, January 30, 2010

 

Marathon / Boot Key Harbor, Florida

Thursday, January 28.
Woohoo! Made it to paradise. We had a happy reunion with Looper friends at Sombrero Dockside Marina this afternoon. Louis and Diane on the Bella Luna, Phil and Alice on Wonderland, and Larry and Marge on Wandering L&M. We were tickled to see other friends we’ve made along the way: Greg and Judy on Magic II and Steve and Carol on Here and Now. There were others, but my brain is in overload. Diane gave me the “orientation” and assured me that “Keys Disease” will infect us shortly. Plans for cocktails and dinner with the group had already been made before we arrived, so Louis and Diane took us with them for fresh shrimp and wings at the popular Sharpies restaurant. We already feel the cares of the world evaporating -- the first symptom of Keys Disease. I suspect that blog updates may be spotty for the five weeks we will be here. Photos later. (Another symptom?)

 

Everglades Wildlife Safari









Wednesday, January 27. Our goal was to take an airboat tour of the Everglades to see birds, gators, and exotic foliage. But what we found is that most of the air boat operators around here give you a thrilling ride through the grasses, but they focus more on the ride than the wildlife. Instead we chartered a morning eco-tourist safari on a pole boat. Jack, naturalist, tour guide, and owner of Everglades Adventure Tours (www.evergladesadventuretours.com ), grew up poling through the Everglades with his dad, so he told us that his new thriving enterprise felt more like fun than work. He was especially pleased that there is a growing emphasis on ecology and preservation in the Glades.

Bob and I stepped into a small flat boat, and Jack quickly launched us into the shallow waters of the Glades. He proceeded to use a long pole to propel us forward through less than a foot of clear pristine water, surrounded by mangroves and grasses. We marveled at a cove filled with giant bromeliads, and he quietly propelled us to spots where flocks of birds – egrets, storks, herons, ibis – and yes, the gorgeous pink spoonbills – were perched. We had never seen storks, so we were in heaven! We even saw an alligator slithering right beside us underwater. The gator was in such a hurry that I forgot to be terrified. One stretch of the waterway was covered with what looked to be foam-covered algae. Our guide said this was the sign of pristine water. Long live the Everglades!

Tonight we are anchored near New Turkey Island, one of the many remote, uninhabited keys along the border of the Everglades National Park. This area is known as Ten Thousand Islands. We hope to be in Marathon tomorrow.

 

Everglades City and the Famous Rod and Gun Club






Tuesday, January 26.
After a lumpy ride south in the Gulf about 2-3 miles offshore, we turned to shore at Marco Island Pass. The markings here are really confusing! I remember having to call SeaTow for directions the last time we went through this spot. The few markers we could find served as egret nests. Today we watched the chart plotter and both depth sounders, and we carefully threaded our way past Goodland and on to Everglades City without any trouble.

This is Florida just as it was 50 years ago; there’s nary a condo or high rise building in sight. Everglades City, population around 350 to 750 during “high” season, is a quiet community where men and women depend on the water for their livelihood. A number of Everglades tour boats went by as we approached. We docked in front of the Rod and Gun Club, a charming, rambling wood-frame inn that is a throwback to another era. Lots of famous people have stayed here including Presidents Roosevelt, Truman, Eisenhower, Hoover, and Nixon. Other notable visitors from the past include Ernest Hemingway, Burl Ives, John Wayne, Burt Reynolds, Shawn Connery, and Mick Jagger. It’s in the Everglades after all, a place for adventurers and manly men.

By late afternoon another cruising boat, a 39-foot Mainship named Magic II, arrived. After a brief chat with the owners, we agreed to have cocktails on our boat, then dinner together at the Rod and Gun Club restaurant. Greg and Judy are a delightful, fun couple from Hampton Roads, Virginia. They are also on their way to Marathon for a month. We all marveled at the beautiful old wood-paneled walls of the Rod and Gun Club, and we had a wonderful time comparing cruising notes. Our seafood portabella dinner was plentiful and delicious. They plan to leave in the morning and cruise straight to the Keys; we will anchor out one night before we get there.

Monday, January 25, 2010

 

An Afternoon with Birds and Mangroves







Monday, January 25. The old saw,“Red sky at night, sailor’s delight. Red sky at morning, sailor take warning,” proved true today. We were really glad to be tied up at a dock, because mighty winds blew all day long.

Bob and I spent the morning cleaning the boat and packing up 20 pounds of winter clothes, which are now bound for Huntsville in the mail. No more deep freezes allowed! We rewarded ourselves by driving over to Sanibel Island, where we toured the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge. This pristine wildlife area was named for J.N. “Ding” Darling, an editorial cartoonist and conservation activist during the early 1900s. We mainly saw lush mangroves, palms, and gumbo limbo trees because the wind kept most birds hunkered down out of sight. We did see a few Roseate Spoonbills from a distance, which made the trip a complete success. Magnificent birds! (I need a better camera.) One poor egret seemed troubled by the sign that said he couldn’t go any further.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

 

Weekend With PDQ Owners in Stuart, Florida



Sunday, January 24. Bob and I woke up Saturday morning in a huge king-size bed--nice! We had rented a car on Friday and drove over to Stuart, located on the Atlantic side of Florida, for a meeting of PDQ owners. The meeting was sponsored by Rhumbline Yachts, the primary PDQ broker. Various speakers discussed all aspects of owning and maintaining our boat. This was a great opportunity to compare notes with other owners, see how they have modified their boats, and explore the new, larger 41-foot PDQ. We've never seen so many PDQs in one place! On Sunday afternoon Bob and I gave our presentation on the Great Loop from a PDQ owner's point of view. It was fun. For us Second Wind has certainly been a perfect boat for long-distance cruising. We also met a neat couple who will be returning across the Gulf about the same time we will this spring. Hope that works out!

After doing a little more sightseeing tomorrow, we are planning to move south toward Everglades City on Tuesday, arriving in Marathon Key on Friday, January 29. We are looking forward to meeting up with a whole group of boating friends who are already celebrating life in the Keys. Our official reservations at Sombrero Dockside Marina don't begin for two more weeks. We do hope a slip will be available for an early arrival. Let's hope the weather cooperates.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

 

On To Fort Myers Beach







Wednesday, January 20.
We are out of cereal and I need a haircut, so it’s time to move on. As we pulled anchor in this lovely spot between Useppa and Cabbage Key Islands, we saluted again the attractive white houses of Useppa, nodded farewell to the Cabbage Key Inn, and began our cruise to Fort Myers beach. As we drove past Sanibel Island, we passed a familiar lighthouse and an island rookery of white birds. It was warm enough that people were actually sitting on the beach in bathing suits. Fishing boats, sailboats, cruising yachts, ferry boats, fast boats, and shrimp boats were all hanging out as we passed under the Matanzas Bridge from Fort Myers proper to Fort Myers Beach. We are now docked at Salty Sam's Marina, where we caught another gorgeous sunset. A pleasant but relatively uneventful day.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

 

Anchorage at Useppa/Cabbage Key









Monday – Tuesday, January 17-18.
The storm we were expecting over the weekend turned out to be mostly wind. By this morning, Charlotte Harbor had only a moderate chop, so we headed on to the Useppa Island/Cabbage Key area, which came highly recommended as an anchorage. Our view consists of mangroves and palm trees along with the waterfront homes of the rich and famous. Useppa is a 100-acre island that was established as a private club. Members can get there only by water, but members we are not! Nearby mangrove islands host lots of birds, and the popular Cabbage Key is a short dinghy ride away.

Cabbage Key is an unspoiled island, famous because of the old Cabbage Key Inn, with its funky restaurant and bar. Fisherman on their way to or from various tarpon-fishing spots have stopped here for years to sip a cool one and get a meal. At some point they started a tradition of signing dollar bills and putting them on the walls and ceiling of the bar and restaurant. There are layers of bills covering every square inch, and the currency supposedly amounts to at least $50,000. This place was supposedly the inspiration for Jimmy Buffet’s “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” Behind the inn is a water tower that Bob and I climbed to get an overview of the island. A nature trail revealed several varieties of palm trees and tropical foliage. This is the first time we’ve seen Mother-in-Law’s Tongue growing wild. In one picture Bob is standing under a tree called a Strangler Fig. Unfortunately our camera battery pack is defunct, and we seem to have left the charger at home, so all pictures for a while will come from my I-phone.

The weather is pretty now, with daytime temps in the low 70’s and nights in the 50’s. We do run the generator in the morning to brew coffee and take the chill off. Paradise would be more complete only if our family and friends were here with us.

P.S. We just dinghied over for dinner at the Cabbage Tree Inn -- really good. We posted our dollar bill under a tarpon tale, along with many layers of other bills. We found out that as the dollar bills fall off the wall or ceiling, they are donated to charity -- raising up to $12,000 a year. The sky was clear and the stars were shining as we made our way back over open water to our little island of light. It was a delightful evening, reminding us of other such dinghy rides in the Caribbean.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

 

Visits to Pelican Bay and Punta Gorda










Thursday – Sunday, January 15 – 17.
Now THIS is what we’ve been waiting for! To avoid the slow speeds and a string of bridges required if we went the Intercoastal Route, we chose to make a run along the coastline about three miles out in the Gulf. This route was much faster, but the drawback was having to dodge long strings of crabpots. After several hours, we turned east through Boca Grande Pass into Charlotte Harbor and set anchor in Pelican Bay, behind Cayo Costa island. This cove is well named. There must have been more than 40 pelicans in one spot when we arrived. As the afternoon progressed, the water turned to glass, and the clouds reflected beautifully in the water. A few other cruisers in the anchorage shared one of the most gorgeous sunsets we’ve ever seen.

Just a short dinghy ride across the bay is Cayo Costa State Park. This park has some small cabins, a camping area, and some docks for smaller boats. We happily took the open-air cart that drove us across the island to a lovely white-sand beach. Of course a few shells called to us. We did notice a few dead fish and a lot of sea urchins on shore, reflecting the effects of the recent week-long freeze.

Because of strong winds and impending bad weather, we are spending the weekend in Punta Gorda, which is 20 miles inland at the mouth of the Peace River. The city has a beautiful new marina (Laisley Park) with a nice boardwalk, but we haven’t seen a lot of action around here. However, there are some excellent restaurants nearby, such as The Perfect Caper, where we just enjoyed a fabulous dinner. We will eventually need groceries, but I doubt that we will starve. A nasty-looking storm is headed this way, so we are happy to be tied up in the shelter of a marina. We hope to spend the first of next week at another anchorage.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

 

Sunny Sarasota





Wednesday, January 13. Today has been sunny, even if windy and cool, and we enjoyed our three-block walk into downtown Sarasota to find a grocery store. Whole Foods was a perfect place to get some bread and meat to grill. Afterward we walked in the park adjacent to the marina. The area is lovely – a nice path runs along the waterfront park, and sailboats are moored in the bay. Marina Jacks is quite a luxurious marina -- our first to feature valet parking for sure! Later in the afternoon some Loopers, Jim and Mary, pulled in and we invited them over for wine and cheese. We are envious that they have most of the Great Loop still ahead of them. Nice folks. I hope we run into them again soon.

The weather is supposed to be warmer tomorrow, so we are planning to anchor out in Pelican Bay. We've heard about the many lovely anchorages along Florida's west coast, and that’s what we’ve wanted to do as we cruised south, but then the cold weather hit. Let's hope we find a good spot.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

 

Back On the Water: Sarasota







Tuesday, January 12. With a weather forecast calling for "plentiful sunshine," we started our engines after a month of patient waiting and headed out onto Tampa Bay. Ahhhhhhh, we relish the freedom of being out on the water again. After three and a half hours of cruising in lots of shallow water ("Don't go where the birds are walking."), we finally spotted the huge Sunshine Skyway bridge and the Sarasota skyline. We are staying at Marina Jack’s, a marina noted for pampering its guests and offering several great restaurants on the premises. Crab Nachos have been highly recommended. Guess where we are headed. . . .

Sunday, January 10, 2010

 

Fun in the Florida SUN? No, Fun in a Florida Deep Freeze!






Wednesday – Sunday, January 6 – 10. Huntsville was having a cold snap as we climbed into Bob and Sue Kuehlthau’s airplane for a trip south to warm (usually) Saint Petersburg. The first day-and-a-half was chilly but not cold. Since then, however, we’ve been in a deep freeze. It is even warmer in Alaska than here! Floridians are shivering, and so are we.

The weather hasn’t interfered with our adventures though. During the few days Bob and Sue were here, we’ve toured both St. Pete and Tarpon Springs, shopped at specialty stores and galleries, marveled at Tiffany windows at the First Methodist Church, eaten well, gotten a different perspective from the Dali Musueum, been to a movie, and watched Alabama win the National Championship.

The Kuehlthaus have been delightful company, and we’ve had great fun exploring Saint Petersburg with them. They agree that this is an outstanding area to visit. There are plenty of things to do and see, plus the waterfront and downtown areas are easy on the eyes. Now it’s time to move further south. As soon as the weather improves (probably Tuesday), we will cast off our lines and turn south toward Sarasota.

 

Christmas and New Year 2009








The Christmas holiday was a blur, but excellent nonetheless. A short visit with Scott and Anne in Tallahassee was a whirlwind of activity: go to a garage sale and an art show, paint a wall, redecorate, clean the house, cook, and put on a party all in the same day. That describes “Life with Scott and Anne”. It was great fun.

Then word came that my aunt Virginia in Birmingham was not doing well. Bob and Anne dropped me off at her hospital room on our drive back to Huntsville. She died a few days later. At the age of 90, Virginia was ready to go. The funeral was a celebration of a loving, vibrant lady and a life well lived. It also gave us an opportunity to see family members that we don’t often get to see. A couple of days later it was time for our annual party. So with Scott and Anne’s help, we decorated the house, installed our fabulous new painting series by Anne (visible behind the photo of Anne/Susan with antlers), put together some party food (with help from Costco), enjoyed being hosts at a fun party, delighted in the arrival of Susan and Keith, got ready for Christmas, relished a delicious, eventful Christmas dinner (including an emergency visit to the hospital by Anne), loved having Jim, Martha, Allison, and Mackenzie for a quick visit, partied on New Year’s Eve, then collapsed until it was time to head back to the boat. This Christmas holiday was memorable in every way, including the sensation of riding a roller coaster of activities and emotions.

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