Second Wind on the Great Loop and Beyond

Monday, June 25. Many Loopers have told that one of their favorite parts of the entire Great Loop was traveling the Rideau Canal (pronounced REED-oh by Canadians). The canal system begins with the flight of eight locks below Ottawa (which we used a few days ago to raise us from the Ottawa River to Parliament Hill). The historic Rideau Canal then winds through a series of lakes, rivers, and canals for 125 miles until it ends in Kingston, Ontario. There are 45 locks in the system, passing through a number of small, picturesque towns and pristine wooded areas, some flanked by rocky cliffs.

We’ve learned that the story of the Rideau Canal is an important chapter in Canadian history. As the War of 1812 raged on, the British government needed an alternative supply line between Lake Ontario and Montreal in case the bad old United States threatened the St. Lawrence passage. Lt Colonel John By of the British Royal Engineers was dispatched with a minimal budget to build a canal system through rugged granite-laden terrain and disease-ridden bogs. Colonel By completed his mission between 1826 and 1832. Several of the locks feature a thick limestone Lock Masters house that could be defended from attack. Slits for arms are still visible. Of course those feared American attacks never occurred, and the canal served peacefully for years as an important artery for regional commerce. Today the Canal is a major tourist attraction, loved especially by pleasure boaters, but also visited by hikers and auto travelers.

As an engineering marvel, the Rideau Canal has just been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the year 2007 marks the 175th anniversary of its opening. The entire system was built of hand-cut limestone. Many workers died during the construction process, many from blasting through granite rock, but many more from malaria. Today the locks are still operated by hand, with a several lock tenders cranking black wheels to open and close the locks. Boats tie up inside the lock chamber by passing a line around vertical cables that line the lock wall. As water fills or recedes the lock chamber, your boat rises or falls accordingly.

Parks Canada maintains the Rideau Canal as a historical haven to a steady stream of tourists, both local and international. The fee for a one-day lock passage is $1.55 per foot. (We have a seasonal pass.) Because we also have a seasonal mooring pass, we can tie up to lock walls to spend the night. A walking trail, cycling paths, and paddling trails pass along the system, and most of the canals include an inviting park area. In the winter the canal freezes over, and we have heard that the locks become a series of skating rinks!