Second Wind on the Great Loop and Beyond

Wednesday, January 27. Our goal was to take an airboat tour of the Everglades to see birds, gators, and exotic foliage. But what we found is that most of the air boat operators around here give you a thrilling ride through the grasses, but they focus more on the ride than the wildlife. Instead we chartered a morning eco-tourist safari on a pole boat. Jack, naturalist, tour guide, and owner of Everglades Adventure Tours (www.evergladesadventuretours.com ), grew up poling through the Everglades with his dad, so he told us that his new thriving enterprise felt more like fun than work. He was especially pleased that there is a growing emphasis on ecology and preservation in the Glades.

Bob and I stepped into a small flat boat, and Jack quickly launched us into the shallow waters of the Glades. He proceeded to use a long pole to propel us forward through less than a foot of clear pristine water, surrounded by mangroves and grasses. We marveled at a cove filled with giant bromeliads, and he quietly propelled us to spots where flocks of birds – egrets, storks, herons, ibis – and yes, the gorgeous pink spoonbills – were perched. We had never seen storks, so we were in heaven! We even saw an alligator slithering right beside us underwater. The gator was in such a hurry that I forgot to be terrified. One stretch of the waterway was covered with what looked to be foam-covered algae. Our guide said this was the sign of pristine water. Long live the Everglades!

Tonight we are anchored near New Turkey Island, one of the many remote, uninhabited keys along the border of the Everglades National Park. This area is known as Ten Thousand Islands. We hope to be in Marathon tomorrow.