Tuesday, May 29, 2007
From Baltimore Inner Harbor to Georgetown, MD, on the Sassafras River, Chesapeake’s Eastern Shore
Tuesday, May 29. The Memorial Day crowds in Baltimore began to thin out by late afternoon on Monday, and Bob and I enjoyed taking a walk to the James Joyce Irish Pub for an early supper. Corn beef hash wrapped in cabbage rolls was a pleasant change from our steady diet of seafood (not really complaining though). Baltimore seemed like an altogether different place without the constant parade of boats in the harbor and hubbub in the marina. We have both been here before, and we agree that the Inner Harbor is a great place, preferably when it’s not a holiday. We spent a good bit of the day planning our next leg of the journey, which will take us along the coast of New Jersey and eventually into New York Harbor. Yikes!
This morning we headed north for the Sassafras River, which has been described by several guidebooks in glowing terms: “High-banked and bounded by bronze-colored cliffs, the Sassafras River is one of the most beautiful on the Eastern Shore.” We agree. It also looks just like the Tennessee River! So tonight we are tied to a mooring ball in Georgetown, MD; but we could just as easily be in Guntersville, AL, except for the gazillion marinas around us -- and not a single bass boat to be found! Boating with a capital "B" is clearly a way of life here. We look forward to rendezvous with the Lillys on Seaquel tomorrow in the C&D Canal, then we plan to spend the weekend with them and maybe other Loopers in Cape May, NJ.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Road Trip to Havre de Grace, MD (Still on the Chesapeake Bay)
Photos include:Tall ship in Baltimore Inner Harbor
Jane and Liz, both sitting and "working hard"
Grist Mill
View of Susquehanna River
Sunday, May 27. After seeing the Hicks off Saturday morning, we spent the rest of the day doing unsavory chores like laundry and boat clean-up. It was great fun to have Bill and Vickie share our cruise up the Chesapeake; not only are they old friends, but Bill’s grilling and Vickie’s ideas for recipes were very, very welcome.
Today we had another pleasant adventure. Paul and Jane Cowhig picked us up in their rental car. After lunch at Amicci’s Restaurant in Little Italy and a walk to see the Tall Ships in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, we drove to the smallish city of Havre de Grace, which is about 40 miles north of Baltimore. Because it is Sunday, most of the shops were closed (much to the delight of the Bob and Paul), BUT delicious treats at sister shops Bomboys Ice Cream and Bomboys Confectionary Shop made up for the lack of shopping. We drove by various parks, looked at pretty houses, and stopped at the restored lock tender’s house along the old Susquenna and Tidewater Canal. We actually opened, then closed the swing bridge across the lock manually. We also learned that Havre de Grace (named by General Lafayette, meaning “Harbor of Mercy”) missed becoming the capital of our country by one vote! Riding through the Maryland countryside was pleasant as we headed toward the Susquehanna River. Rolling hills and woods with wild roses and honeysuckle were a nice change of scenery for us. The Susquehanna River looked lazy and pretty, and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing an old grist mill in a park area beside the river. After a stop for a few groceries at Whole Foods, we said goodbye again to the Cowhigs, who will be going home to Indianapolis for a few weeks. This was a pleasant Sunday with good friends, away from the crowds of Baltimore.
P.S. Internet connectivity keeps dropping out, so it may be a while before more photos are uploaded.
Friday, May 25, 2007
Baltimore Inner Harbor for Memorial Day Weekend
Photos of Chesapeake Bay Light
Bay Bridge, and Busted Speed Boat
Friday, May 25. This morning we said a temporary fond farewell to the Cowhigs, and the Stagg/Hicks party headed north across the Bay to Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. A fair number of sailors have started their Memorial Day weekend early. We passed under the huge Bay Bridge and began the long trek through the ship channel, passing Fort McHenry just before Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. As we entered the Inner Harbor’s No Wake zone, we heard a radio conversation between a sailboat and the Coast Guard regarding damage received from a 70-foot power boat that had just passed the sailboat too closely, without warning and without slowing down. One sailboat crew member had an ankle injury.By the time we topped off our fuel tanks, the local water police had stopped the offender (shown in the picture), were bringing him in, and were discussing his offense. There have been many such incidents, and we’ve enjoyed a malicious glee that justice was being served in this case at least. Of course, this incident is exactly why we decided to stay off the water during this holiday weekend.
More Eastern Shore: From Cambridge to St. Michaels, MD
Thursday, May 24. Because we had long-standing reservations in Baltimore for Memorial Day weekend, we decided that we could still get in another day on the Chesapeake's Eastern Shore. We've come to realize that it is the smaller, relatively undiscovered towns and cities that we have enjoyed the most. On the Chesapeake Bay, many possible stops fill this description. Even though St. Michaels has been discovered, it is still a charming and worthwhile stop, especially since one of the Cambridge locals, a Sea Tow operator, told us a short cut to get there, called "The Back Door." We anchored out with our buddy boat Happy Destiny and dinghied in. Because the Cowhig's dinghy is still suffering from the pounding we took after we left Norfolk, it took two trips. We enjoyed seeing the swans in their natural habitat.The main streets of St. Michaels are lined with lovingly restored historic homes, restaurants, and cute shops. But the main attraction is the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. We spent most of the afternoon exploring every aspect of boating on the Chesapeake. I especially enjoyed touring the Hooper Strait lighthouse. By 4 p.m. we realized that another picnic dinner was what we all craved, so we stopped at a local grocery store and picked up some sausage to grill and an array of snacks. Don't ask. I will be going back to Weight Watchers when we have finished the Loop.
Hospitality and Spiritual Refreshment in Cambridge, MD!
Photographing Hugh's house was the beginning of an exceptionally pleasant day in Cambridge, MD
Friendly neighbors stop to talk to strangers walking down Mill Street
Our Cambridge friends. Left to right: Skip, Jenny, and Hugh
Whole group invited to tour Mill Street Bed and Breakfast
Mill Street B and B, our friendly priest, and the gorgeous Christ Church rose window are shown here.
Wednesday, May 23. We meant to leave early this afternoon, but we simply couldn’t get enough of Cambridge. Within 20 minutes of our morning walk down Mills Street, lined with beautiful historic houses, we were engaged in conversation with the friendly folks of Cambridge. First, Hugh Wright noticed that we were snapping pictures of his huge, gorgeous home, so he came over, introduced himself, and tried to convince us to help him paint his house. Hugh’s family has lived in Cambridge since the late 17th century, so we looked to him for inside information. Pretty soon two more neighbors, Skip and Jenny, introduced themselves. Before long, we were invited to tour their historic, beautifully decorated bed and breakfast, the Mill Street Inn. The three Cambridge neighbors filled us in on more of the history of their town, and Hugh presented Bob with a fabulous pictorial history of Cambridge, which we are enjoying reading. Hugh is one of the authors, so we are especially thrilled. Their generosity, good humor, and genuine friendliness will certainly become one of our favorite Loop memories. Also, when we come back to the Chesapeake Bay, we will definitely plan a stop at the Mill Street Inn. (www.millstinn.com)
Hugh mentioned that the priest of the Christ Episcopal Church might be available to let us see the interior of the church, so off we went. Sure enough, he welcomed us and assured us that God didn’t object to Bermuda shorts and sandals. He was a charmer -- down-to-earth, friendly, and knowledgeable. To say that we were awed by our experience at Christ Church is an understatement. The deep, rich colors of the rose window, which was designed by James Powel and Sons in London, make it notable as one of the finest stained glass windows in the country. Below the rose window, five companion windows depict qualities associated with Christian life: Love, Joy, Peace, Patience and Humility. Across the church was the altar window, designed and installed by Tiffany in 1926. We were moved. When the priest invited us to stay for a Holy Eucharist service, we accepted. Again, we met some friendly parishioners, and the Staggs, Hicks, and Cowhigs left the church with warm hearts. Another Great Loop snapshot firmly tucked away in our minds.
A renaissance is clearly underway in Cambridge; this delightful place will surely continue to thrive. After lunch at the Cambridge Grill, (the owner stopped us outside and also welcomed us), we made several stops at various upscale small shops (the guys groaned the whole time), including a confectioners shop where we replenished our supply of dark chocolate. By the time we had gone through the Cambridge Maritime Museum, we were ready for a shared picnic dinner.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
More photos of Friendly Cambridge, MD!
Photos:
We loaded up on chocolate and confections -- a few of our favorite things.
The friendly owner of the Cambridge Cafe stopped and welcomed us to her city.
The Cowhigs, Hicks, and Staggs ended our day with a picnic feast
From Solomons, MD, to Cambridge, MD, on Chesapeake Bay’s Eastern Shore
Photos of Skipjack Nathan of Dorchester , walk down High Street
, and historic Christ Church
Tuesday, May 21. A break in the weather finally arrived, so Second Wind and Happy Destiny cast off our lines and headed north and east on the fickle Chesapeake Bay. After the pounding we took a few days ago, this ride was smooth as glass. We are currently docked at the Cambridge Yacht Basin on the Choptank River, along with hundreds of sailboats, working boats, and power boats of every description. One particularly interesting boat is the Nathan, which I’ve learned is a skipjack, a type of sailboat developed on the Chesapeake Bay for dredging oysters. Skipjacks still remain in service because of Maryland’s laws restricting the use of powerboats for oyster fishery. The most notable characteristic of a skipjack is the length of its boom, which is usually as long as the boat’s deck. The mast is very tall and slightly raked, and the bow spirit is also unusually long.
Cambridge is another lovely small town with a charm that we miss in big cities. James Michner’s novel Chesapeake was based on Cambridge. As we walked down High Street this afternoon, we were reminded of Huntsville’s historic Twickenham district -- charming Victorian houses, towering old trees, lovely gardens, roses on trellises. We stopped at the Christ Church and marveled at the adjoining cemetery with headstones dating back to the 1700s. Cambridge has a colorful and fascinating history. We passed the plaque where John F. Kennedy delivered his “Ask not what your country can do for you . . . “ speech and a monument to the Underground Railroad, which told the story of a slave auction, in which a black carpenter successfully “bought” back his wife and daughter. The Underground Railway enabled them to escape.
Because we are eating our way around the Great Loop, the six of us (Staggs, Hicks, and Cowhigs) were compelled to stop at Snappers Restaurant for supper, where the crabcakes were perfect! We’re liking Cambridge a whole lot!
, and historic Christ Church
Tuesday, May 21. A break in the weather finally arrived, so Second Wind and Happy Destiny cast off our lines and headed north and east on the fickle Chesapeake Bay. After the pounding we took a few days ago, this ride was smooth as glass. We are currently docked at the Cambridge Yacht Basin on the Choptank River, along with hundreds of sailboats, working boats, and power boats of every description. One particularly interesting boat is the Nathan, which I’ve learned is a skipjack, a type of sailboat developed on the Chesapeake Bay for dredging oysters. Skipjacks still remain in service because of Maryland’s laws restricting the use of powerboats for oyster fishery. The most notable characteristic of a skipjack is the length of its boom, which is usually as long as the boat’s deck. The mast is very tall and slightly raked, and the bow spirit is also unusually long.Cambridge is another lovely small town with a charm that we miss in big cities. James Michner’s novel Chesapeake was based on Cambridge. As we walked down High Street this afternoon, we were reminded of Huntsville’s historic Twickenham district -- charming Victorian houses, towering old trees, lovely gardens, roses on trellises. We stopped at the Christ Church and marveled at the adjoining cemetery with headstones dating back to the 1700s. Cambridge has a colorful and fascinating history. We passed the plaque where John F. Kennedy delivered his “Ask not what your country can do for you . . . “ speech and a monument to the Underground Railroad, which told the story of a slave auction, in which a black carpenter successfully “bought” back his wife and daughter. The Underground Railway enabled them to escape.
Because we are eating our way around the Great Loop, the six of us (Staggs, Hicks, and Cowhigs) were compelled to stop at Snappers Restaurant for supper, where the crabcakes were perfect! We’re liking Cambridge a whole lot!
Monday, May 21, 2007
Three Days in Solomons, MD
Bob and I in Annapolis, MD
Our view across from Calvert's Marina
Calvert Cliffs, with light house on the point
Bill and Vickie Hicks and Old State House in Annapolis
Monday evening, May 21. Because the weather forecast sounded more favorable this morning, several boats headed out of the Patuxent River, where Solomons is located, with plans of cruising north on the Chesapeake. All of them turned around and came back! It’s the year of high winds! We’ve spent the last couple of days docked on the boat with Bill and Vickie Hicks. All of us have been gorging on seafood, especially crab. This area is a boater’s paradise. Boating, both sail and power, is a way of life here. You can dinghy over to most restaurants, and multiple marinas are chock full of boats of all descriptions. Having a boat in Solomons, MD, seems to be as common has having a car in Huntsville, AL.
Yesterday while Bob worked on the boat, the rest of us took a field trip to a sandy beach near the Calvert Cliffs. This area has high sandy banks reminiscent of the White Cliffs of Dover, only these cliffs are tan. I understand this is where they trained for the Normandy invasion. We were looking for shells and shark’s teeth, but we didn’t find anything significant. Today we drove to Annapolis and thoroughly enjoyed walking the streets of this historically significant city. The Maryland State House, built between 1772-1779, is not only impressive in appearance; it also served as the first peacetime capital of the U.S. This was also where the Continental Congress met.
We have had a pleasant sojourn here, but enough is enough! We're hoping to move on tomorrow if the wind cooperates. We've learned NOT to trust the weather forecast though; we do better looking at the actual data from the buoys placed at strategic points along the Chesapeake. Pictures later.
Yesterday while Bob worked on the boat, the rest of us took a field trip to a sandy beach near the Calvert Cliffs. This area has high sandy banks reminiscent of the White Cliffs of Dover, only these cliffs are tan. I understand this is where they trained for the Normandy invasion. We were looking for shells and shark’s teeth, but we didn’t find anything significant. Today we drove to Annapolis and thoroughly enjoyed walking the streets of this historically significant city. The Maryland State House, built between 1772-1779, is not only impressive in appearance; it also served as the first peacetime capital of the U.S. This was also where the Continental Congress met.
We have had a pleasant sojourn here, but enough is enough! We're hoping to move on tomorrow if the wind cooperates. We've learned NOT to trust the weather forecast though; we do better looking at the actual data from the buoys placed at strategic points along the Chesapeake. Pictures later.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
From Deltaville, VA, to Solomons, MD – Quite a Ride!
Saturday, May 19. The most important thing is that tonight we are all safely docked in Solomons, MD. Getting here was a harrowing experience. Although the weather forecast was right on the margin of “go”/“no go,” four of the Deltaville Looper boats opted to head north in the Chesapeake Bay bright and early this morning. At first the water was merely choppy, but by the time we needed to cross the wide mouth of the Potomac River, we were all getting pounded by large, unrelenting waves. The abuse continued for an hour and a half until we had crossed the Potomac and were back into more manageable chop, with only crabpots to dodge.
During the worst of the pounding, Bob insisted that we go below to the quieter downstairs pilot station. We literally had to crawl on hands and knees, one at a time, across the flybridge to keep from getting slammed. Everything that hadn’t been secured was all over the floor. It could have been worse. Happy Destiny almost lost their dinghy, but they were able to secure it with lines when the straps failed. Our radar mast started wobbling, but Bob was able to stabilize it until we got to the marina.
We were happy to meet old friends Bill and Vickie Hicks from Birmingham at Calvert Marina, and the four of us joined Larry and Lola (Lola Marie) for an excellent crab cake dinner at Stoney’s on Solomons Pier. The weather isn’t expected to improve for a few days, so we will hang around here until it does. The exception is Bob and Anne on Sandpiper, who may try to continue their journey north tomorrow to make a plane flight. Crowded as it is on the weekend, Solomons Island is a good place to be.
During the worst of the pounding, Bob insisted that we go below to the quieter downstairs pilot station. We literally had to crawl on hands and knees, one at a time, across the flybridge to keep from getting slammed. Everything that hadn’t been secured was all over the floor. It could have been worse. Happy Destiny almost lost their dinghy, but they were able to secure it with lines when the straps failed. Our radar mast started wobbling, but Bob was able to stabilize it until we got to the marina.
We were happy to meet old friends Bill and Vickie Hicks from Birmingham at Calvert Marina, and the four of us joined Larry and Lola (Lola Marie) for an excellent crab cake dinner at Stoney’s on Solomons Pier. The weather isn’t expected to improve for a few days, so we will hang around here until it does. The exception is Bob and Anne on Sandpiper, who may try to continue their journey north tomorrow to make a plane flight. Crowded as it is on the weekend, Solomons Island is a good place to be.
Friday, May 18, 2007
Another Day in Deltaville!
Friday, May 18. The various captains got up early, checked the weather, then went back to bed. This was the windiest day we've had since we got to the Chesapeake. It was also cool and cloudy. Even though everybody is getting really, really antsy to get back on the water, it hasn't stopped the daily gatherings of boating friends. This afternoon, the Doziers, owners of Regatta Point Marina where we are staying, threw a cocktail party for all of us who've been stranded. We really haven't suffered a whole lot -- we've all gained several pounds from the quantities of food and drink we've consumed this week. Everyone hopes to get away again in the morning . . . . The weather is iffy, but possibly better. Stay tuned.
Thursday, May 17, 2007
Map of Our Progress
Thursday, May 17. I copied this Great Loop map from another blog. A version of it was published in PassageMaker magazine. The dotted line shows pretty much where we plan to go (some exceptions though), and the solid line shows where we've been. As you can tell, we still have quite a way to go before we receive our "Baccalooperate Degree."You should be able to click on the image to enlarge it.
Still in Deltaville, VA!
Thursday, May 17. The wind hasn’t let up. Even old timers are saying this has been the windiest year they can remember. One trawler left the marina early this morning, then turned around and came back. Tomorrow doesn’t look much better, but Bob and Larry (Lola Marie) are getting up early in the morning to decide whether to go or stay another day. We are eager to get to Solomons, MD, where our mail and, more important, old friends Bill and Vickie Hicks are waiting for us.Even though everybody is ready to move on, we’ve had a wonderful time. Yesterday Bob and I took a day trip with the Cowhigs to a lovely historic church and cemetery. Six couples have eaten out together, grilled out, shared a birthday party, and enjoyed pies, cake, margaritas, and hors d’oeuvres. I will always associate Deltaville with overeating, great friends, and lots of fun! We’ve all cleaned our boats, and the guys have gone to West Marine multiple times while the girls hit the grocery store and little shops. Even so, our fingers are crossed that the wind and waves will calm down by the morning.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Norfolk (Mile 0) and on to Deltaville, VA, on the Chesapeake Bay
Saturday May 12 thru Tuesday May 15. We’ve now finished the ICW and are enjoying sunny but windy weather on the Chesapeake Bay. Talk about a study in contrasts! On Saturday we left the quiet solitude of the Dismal Swamp and immediately entered the huge industrial and Naval shipping lanes of Norfolk. We encountered our first water skiers (in very cold water!) just before we started going under a series of railroad bridges, shown in the pictures. Navy ships in storage, container ships, and cranes lined both shores, and boats were everywhere. Plenty of restaurants, shops, and sightseeing were convenient from the Waterside Marina in Norfolk, where we stayed with Loopers. Jane and I (Happy Destiny) celebrated Mother’s Day with brunch, a pedicure, and a shopping spree at the nearby MacArthur Mall. A group of Loopers took a short water taxi ride across the river to Portsmouth, where we enjoyed Mexican dinner.Monday’s weather promised fair winds with the threat of deteriorating weather Tuesday, so several of us (Lola Marie, Happy Destiny, Sandpiper) headed out for our first leg of travel on the Chesapeake. All of us, plus newly met Loopers Mike and Jeannie (Jeannie Marie), are staying at Doziers Regatta Point Marina in Deltaville, VA. At cocktails aboard Sandpiper Monday evening, Jack and Craig (his wife) Dozier joined our party. The Doziers publish the wonderful Waterway Guide series that have brought us here safely and soundly. Deltaville is their home, and their marina is one of the most boater friendly places we’ve stayed so far. The “office” looks like a lovely southern home -- shaded front porch lined with rocking chairs. Great restrooms and showers. They arrange for restaurants to come pick us up and also provide loaner cars for our convenience. A complete list of all types of stores and services, along with the local newspaper, were in our welcome bag. Because the Doziers love Loopers, they’ve given us a greatly reduced rate for our stay.
We’re loving Deltaville! Today we are renting a car with the Cowhigs to look for the old Episcopal church and cemetery where Paul’s folks are buried. We plan to stay here for several days until the small craft advisory is lifted.
Friday, May 11, 2007
Reflections on the Intracoastal Waterway
Cruising America’s Great Loop in protected waters is made possible by the existance of the Intracoastal Waterway, commonly referred to as “The ICW” or sometimes disparagingly, “The Ditch.” Now that the end is in sight, I thought it would be good to pay homage to this amazing system of manmade and natural channels, canals, bays, rivers, and estuaries along the eastern and southeast coasts of the U.S.
The ICW is actually divided into two parts, Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, which took us from Fairhope, AL to Carrabelle, FL (actually begins in Brownsville, TX) and the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, which extends from Norfolk, VA, (Mile 0) to Key West, FL (Mile 1244). The two segments were originally supposed to be connected by a canal across northern Florida, but environmental concerns canceled that plan.
In addition to recreational boaters such as Loopers, “snowbirds,” fishermen, and weekend speed boaters, the ICW has a fair amount of commercial activity. Barges haul petroleum products, foodstuffs, building materials, and manufactured goods. Commercial fishermen use the ICW to get to their fishing grounds. Coastal and inland marinas, village shops, restaurants, etc., depend on waterway traffic for their livelihood.
If you’ve followed our journey, you know how much we’ve enjoyed the changes in terrain and wealth of wildlife seen as we’ve cruised along the ICW. Stamped indelibly on our brains are images of south Florida’s palm trees, mangroves, manatees, alligators, ibis, roseate spoonbills and the ubiquitous osprey nests, as well as the clear, turquoise waters of the Keys. These images gradually give way to mental photos of Georgia and the Carolinas: stately oaks draped with Spanish moss, cypress trees, scrubby live oaks, barrier islands, tidal swings, glimpses of the Atlantic surf and coffee-colored water. It’s all good.
We also realize that the ICW is the closest thing to a highway we have while cruising. We can measure our progress by counting mile markers. We can be sure we’ve taken the correct turn in the waterway by locating the little yellow squares on green buoys or yellow triangles on read buoys. When we leave the ICW in Norfolk, our route opens to many, many possible routes and destinations on the Chesapeake Bay and points north. No more clearly charted pathway leads from “here” to “there.” It’s exciting, but also a little daunting to choose which stops to make and which route to take. Now that we can see the end of the ICW, we realize that we'll actually miss it: the waterway has offered us an amazing adventure. We hope that Congress will see fit to fund maintenance so that future cruising folks can experience this incredible waterway system too.
The ICW is actually divided into two parts, Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, which took us from Fairhope, AL to Carrabelle, FL (actually begins in Brownsville, TX) and the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, which extends from Norfolk, VA, (Mile 0) to Key West, FL (Mile 1244). The two segments were originally supposed to be connected by a canal across northern Florida, but environmental concerns canceled that plan.
In addition to recreational boaters such as Loopers, “snowbirds,” fishermen, and weekend speed boaters, the ICW has a fair amount of commercial activity. Barges haul petroleum products, foodstuffs, building materials, and manufactured goods. Commercial fishermen use the ICW to get to their fishing grounds. Coastal and inland marinas, village shops, restaurants, etc., depend on waterway traffic for their livelihood.
If you’ve followed our journey, you know how much we’ve enjoyed the changes in terrain and wealth of wildlife seen as we’ve cruised along the ICW. Stamped indelibly on our brains are images of south Florida’s palm trees, mangroves, manatees, alligators, ibis, roseate spoonbills and the ubiquitous osprey nests, as well as the clear, turquoise waters of the Keys. These images gradually give way to mental photos of Georgia and the Carolinas: stately oaks draped with Spanish moss, cypress trees, scrubby live oaks, barrier islands, tidal swings, glimpses of the Atlantic surf and coffee-colored water. It’s all good.
We also realize that the ICW is the closest thing to a highway we have while cruising. We can measure our progress by counting mile markers. We can be sure we’ve taken the correct turn in the waterway by locating the little yellow squares on green buoys or yellow triangles on read buoys. When we leave the ICW in Norfolk, our route opens to many, many possible routes and destinations on the Chesapeake Bay and points north. No more clearly charted pathway leads from “here” to “there.” It’s exciting, but also a little daunting to choose which stops to make and which route to take. Now that we can see the end of the ICW, we realize that we'll actually miss it: the waterway has offered us an amazing adventure. We hope that Congress will see fit to fund maintenance so that future cruising folks can experience this incredible waterway system too.
From Elizabeth City (Mile 51) to the Dismal Swamp Welcome Center (Mile 28)
Friday, May 11. A string of boats cast off early this morning and cruised through the Elizabeth City Bridge, which is scheduled to open every day at 8:30 a.m. All of us were making the run up the Pasquotank River to the Dismal Swamp Canal. The sun was shining, the birds were singing, and we enjoyed a pleasant cruise through the wilderness. The entire procession ran at a slow speed (about 8 mph) through the narrow, curvy river because we didn’t want to arrive too early at the South Mills Lock, which was scheduled to open at 11 a.m. When we all arrived, the laid-back lock master interrupted his lawn mowing to figure out a way to pile 10 boats into this small lock. We were finally lifted the necessary 8 feet to continue our journey to the Dismal Swamp.The Dismal Swamp Canal, which connects the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia and Albemarle Sound in North Carolina, is a historic landmark. We found it to be anything but dismal, and we are happy that we chose this route rather than an alternate route called the Virginia Cut, which doesn’t sound nearly as interesting. George Washington first proposed draining the swamp in 1763 to harvest the timber and use the land for farming. To that end, he purchased a portion of the swamp and had his slaves dig a ditch to nearby Drummond Lake. The return on his investment wasn’t what he had hoped, so Washington withdrew his interest in 1795. However, Governor Patrick Henry supported the concept of using the canal to ship produce, and by 1805, flat-bottomed vessels could be admitted into the 22-mile long canal.
The area is rich in both history and beauty. Slaves often escaped to the Dismal Swamp, and Edgar Allan Poe is said to have written “The Raven” at a hotel that once stood on the Virginia/North Carolina border. Today the water looked absolutely black. We were surprised to learn that the water quality in the canal is unusually pure, preserved by tannic acids from the juniper, gum, and cypress trees. Therefore, bacteria can’t grow in the water. The canal is maintained by the Corps of Engineers. The depth is often troublesome, especially during droughts, and concern always exists that the Canal cannot be maintained indefinitely.
A total of seven boats are tied up at the Dismal Swamp Welcome Center dock tonight. Several of us enjoyed a grilled pork chop dinner at one of the picnic tables until the mosquitoes drove us back inside. This is the only state Welcome Center to have accommodations for both boats and cars. It is a lovely park; we are really happy we chose this route.
The Rose Buddies of Elizabeth City, NC
Friday, May 11. Having heard about the Rose Buddies ever since we first learned about the Great Loop, stopping in Elizabeth City was a must. Shortly after we tied up at the town dock yesterday, 93-year-old Fred Fearing arrived at the town dock by golf cart and invited us (and other boats docked there) to wine and cheese at his house five blocks away. Fred told me that his wife and been “gone” for more than twenty years. Shortly after her death, he began the tradition of bringing a rose to lady boaters in her memory. “This way,” he said, “I honor her every day.” Eventually other volunteers joined him, and soon Elizabeth City became known as the friendliest city along the east coast. Fred himself comes whenever he can, and we were fortunate that he felt up to a visit. If more than five boats are docked there, he often hosts the wine and cheese party, along with a tour of his house. The hospitality is contagious; everyone we met as we toured the town went out of their way to be friendly to boaters.
Thursday, May 10, 2007
From Curmudgeons at the Alligator River Marina (M 83) to Hospitable Rose Buddies in Elizabeth City, NC (M 51) FOG on Albemarle Sound!
Thursday, May 10, 2007. Albemarle Sound is known to be one of the most treacherous bodies of water on the ICW for boaters. It is long and shallow, so any significant wind can whip up seriously steep, high waves. We had no trouble with wind, but just about the time we arrived at a tricky passage through some shallow water with confusing markings, a heavy fog set in. Thanks to good radar plus advice from Claiborne Young the other night, Bob knew how to negotiate the area.
Then the fog arrived with a vengeance. Heavy fog, lots of boat traffic, and a maze of crabpots on the Albemarle Sound was not the combination of factors we were hoping for. Visibility got down to less than ¼ mile. We could see our buddies on Happy Destiny only on radar, even though they weren’t far behind us. We could also hear numerous sailboats in the area, but we never actually spotted any of them. But believe me, we were on high alert for several hours.
Just as we completed crossing the Albemarle, the fog lifted, and beautiful, friendly Elizabeth City came into view. I know I’m sounding repetitious, but this is an especially delightful, hospitable town. We tied up on the free Town Dock (volunteers helped with lines), then headed for lunch and a walk through the downtown area. I can’t describe the friendliness of the townspeople.
Interesting, unbelievable things keep happening. One guy came riding up to the Town Dock on a bicycle with a green parrot perched on his handlebars. He took a walking cane, the parrot jumped on, and he placed the bird in a tree. He said the parrot loves to look at the waterfront, but it never flies away.
It’s been a long day. I’ll describe the renown Rose Buddies in a later posting, but suffice it to say that we were invited to a Wine and Cheese Party at the home of 93-year-old Fred Fearing, founder of the famous Rose Buddies. These volunteers have a unique way of welcoming boaters. After that event, we joined a bunch of other Loopers for Dinner and a Movie at a local movie house. This was a wonderful day after some real doozies during the past few days. More later – with photos when time permits. Tomorrow the Dismal Swamp!
Then the fog arrived with a vengeance. Heavy fog, lots of boat traffic, and a maze of crabpots on the Albemarle Sound was not the combination of factors we were hoping for. Visibility got down to less than ¼ mile. We could see our buddies on Happy Destiny only on radar, even though they weren’t far behind us. We could also hear numerous sailboats in the area, but we never actually spotted any of them. But believe me, we were on high alert for several hours.
Just as we completed crossing the Albemarle, the fog lifted, and beautiful, friendly Elizabeth City came into view. I know I’m sounding repetitious, but this is an especially delightful, hospitable town. We tied up on the free Town Dock (volunteers helped with lines), then headed for lunch and a walk through the downtown area. I can’t describe the friendliness of the townspeople.
Interesting, unbelievable things keep happening. One guy came riding up to the Town Dock on a bicycle with a green parrot perched on his handlebars. He took a walking cane, the parrot jumped on, and he placed the bird in a tree. He said the parrot loves to look at the waterfront, but it never flies away.
It’s been a long day. I’ll describe the renown Rose Buddies in a later posting, but suffice it to say that we were invited to a Wine and Cheese Party at the home of 93-year-old Fred Fearing, founder of the famous Rose Buddies. These volunteers have a unique way of welcoming boaters. After that event, we joined a bunch of other Loopers for Dinner and a Movie at a local movie house. This was a wonderful day after some real doozies during the past few days. More later – with photos when time permits. Tomorrow the Dismal Swamp!
